Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Why Do I Trace My Patterns?

It all started with a simple Simplicity pattern 3 years ago. I cut out the pattern pieces to the size I thought I was, sewed up the top…and it didn’t fit and it just looked terrible on me. First frustration and not a good sign for a beginner. Back to Hancock’s and I am introduced to Kwik Sew patterns. Came home with new pattern in hand and fell in love with the sturdy pattern paper. What did I do? I take my scissors and cut out the pattern pieces with the size I thought I was. Fortunately, that top I made did fit me.

Then I was scratching my head. Expensive pattern, now cut out to a specific size. Can’t reuse for another size. Duh!

I did some research to see what others were using. I went to my local favorite stores to see what was available. I happened to stumble upon the Staedler paper at Staples.

With my second KS pattern, I taught myself to trace a pattern. Out of habit, I continue to trace all my patterns. Even the Big 4 patterns (and I dislike the pattern paper they use).

Why do I trace?
- I trace to keep the original pattern in tack
- I trace to make adjustments on the traced paper.

I have traced a lot of patterns and some of you are probably wondering...where do I put my traced pattern pieces? That will be another post for another day.

My next post will be on “How Do I Trace My Patterns".

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Self Indulgence…Burda World of Fashion (BWOF)

After a few years of watching fellow sewers on PR whip up fantastic BWOF garments and outfits, I decided to take the plunge and order my first issue. I was anxiously awaiting my June issue when I received an email that the magazine was delayed another week. Okay, I have plenty of other things to do…like writing on my blog, organizing my room, etc. Finally, it arrived in this week’s mail from SewBaby.com. Poor DH didn’t see me for hours that evening as I was pouring over the magazine (pictures, drawings, and instructions) and understanding the layout of the patterns.

Will I try something from this June issue? You bet! After all, I have a lot of tracing paper to use. Now, I just need to figure out which garment to make.

I have to say I’m in awe of this magazine. I feel like I have reached a new sewing level and territory. I have ordered a 6-month subscription to BWOF.

I will definitely have a future post on BWOF…my findings and personal take on this magazine. First, I need to do a lot of absorbing.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

My Favorite Tracing Tools (updated)

I have received some questions from fellow sewers on PR…what do I use to trace my patterns? Great question. Here are the basic tools I use: tracing paper, yard stick, 18" ruler, pattern weights, pencil & eraser, and a Sharpie marker.


For the tracing paper, I use Staedler’s sketch paper (on a roll). It’s an 8lb lightweight tracing paper that loves my Sharpie marker. I don’t have a problem with bleed through on this paper with my Ultra Fine Sharpies. It comes in two sizes (rolls). The roll shown in the picture is 18” x 50 yards and it’s the widest roll I’ve seen available. It’s a highly transparent paper and accepts pencil, ink, charcoal & felt tip markers. My only issue with this paper is water. Be careful when using this paper, not to get any moisture on it. This roll was about $15 at my local Staples.

To keep the tracing paper flat over my pattern paper I use my pattern weights. You can use other heavy items, like a stapler, small cans of sliced olives, metal washers, etc. I think you get the idea.

For tracing the lines, I simply use a pencil Crayola Colored Pencils. I found the Crayola Colored Pencils do not leave behind dust/grit. When I used the regular lead pencils...my hands and tools (e.g. white pattern weights) would get dirty. Not the case with the colored pencils.

For marking the pattern, I use an Ultra Fine Sharpie. I mark my notches, dots, squares, shorten/lengthen lines, grain lines, darts, pleats, etc. I also use it to write my pattern information, size, finished sizes, etc.

For tracing straight lines, I use my metal yard stick. You can easily use a wood or plastic version. I also have an 18” plastic ruler for drawing smaller lines. I prefer the metal ruler for it’s added weight, as I get less shifting/movement while tracing.

For tracing curved lines, I use nothing but my hand. I’ve gotten really good with drawing curves by hand. I think that’s related more to my drawing/sketching/painting experience. There are curved rulers available that can help you trace a curve.


I was out and about last night with DH and made a trip to our local Lowe’s. I found the Carriff Soil Separator Cloth. I bought the smallest roll (in width) they had: 24” x 300’. This roll was located next to the black drainage tubes that are used to help with drainage around the house. This roll was about $18. On Carriff's website...they do have a listing for Sewer's Cloth which has the same SKU number as the soil separator cloth. Interesting, huh? For the rest and future posts, I will refer to this cloth as "sewing cloth". I'd rather use a sew-friendly terminology. :)

DH who works in the plant nursery business, mentioned that he could get this cloth for me. I told him, let me try this out and see if I like it enough to get a humongous roll. lol!

I plan on trying out my new sewing cloth later today. Part of my test will be to find a writing tool that doesn't bleed on this cloth. I will post my findings and results later.

Stay tuned for a future post on "why do I trace my patterns".


** Update: I forgot three other tools that I use: a cutting board, Scotch (Magic) tape, and a good pair of paper scissors **

I have a foldable cardboard cutting board that I use over my wood cutting table. I use it to protect my table from nicks when I use my scissors to cut the tracing paper and fabric. Also, it protects my pins from dulling...the cardboard is softer than my wood table.

The Scotch tape is used when I need to shorten the traced pattern piece or when I need to add on to the tracing paper because the original pattern is wider than the tracing paper roll.

I have special scissors for cutting paper and other non-fabric items. I love using my Fiskars (the orange handle). Lets face it, after tracing so many pattern pieces you want a good comfortable scissor to use.


** Another update: Sketch/tracing paper **

I have two Staples in my local area. One store closest to my house carries the sketch/tracing paper. The other Staples (bigger store) does not. ??? If you can't find the Staedler’s brand, I remember seeing another brand (can't remember the name) at AC Moore and it also came on a roll. You just need to make sure the paper can take felt tip markers...meaning no bleed through.


Friday, June 13, 2008

Oh No...My Fabric Stash is Growing! (another post for today)

And growing...and growing. It's a disease. And it doesn't help that I get an email from Ann (Gorgeous Things) to remind to stop by and shop at her site. But you know what??? I love fabric shopping! And I love browsing through Ann's Gorgeous Fabrics site. Here's proof...I made another purchase. These are all cotton fabrics that I purchased from Ann. Yeah, I know...another black fabric, but this one is cotton sateen with some stretch in it. lol! I love flip-flop prints. I've been eyeing this fabric for some time. It's a lovely pink/white cotton pique fabric. There's also a blue mini-medallions cotton fabric. And finally, a crinkle cotton floral print...really light and lovely fabric. My order from Ann, took only 4 days to receive...that's been the average. That's fast!

I also received another package this week. This lovely group of fabrics came from Fashion Fabrics. These are all wonderful cotton lawn fabrics that I couldn't pass up. The fabrics feel wonderful and light. I almost forgot that I ordered these as it took awhile for the package to land in my mailbox. Was that 2 weeks ago? It doesn't matter. Aren't the fabrics luscious?

Do I know what I am going to do with all these lovely fabrics? Not yet. That's why I have an ever growing fabric stash. And if you noticed, I have been buying a lot of spring/summer fabrics. That's because my current fabric stash has a lot of knits (big time), wools, flannels, denim, cotton (quilt), and fleece (what was I thinking). Hardly any lightweight fabrics. So there you have it...my justification for my recent fabric purchases. lol!!!

Looks like I have a lot of pre-washing to do this weekend. Enjoy your weekend!

The Status of My Elastic Waist Shorts and/or Capris

Okay, I made a muslin out of this above ankle pants pattern. This Butterick 5000 pattern is correct, the pants are "semi-fitted". The size Small that I made were actually a bit too tight. So, what did I do? I moved on to another pattern. Don't worry, I haven't given up on this pattern. I just need to find one that fits and then go back and figure out my adjustments for B5000. That's how my mind works. No time for frustrations...just keep moving ahead and learning. lol!

So, onto this pattern Butterick 5044. I love this pattern...the drawings I see on the pattern envelope tell me a lot. I had a feeling I would have better luck with this pattern. The finished hip measurement is about an inch wider than the B5000 pants. I play it smart and decide to make the shorts in a muslin. You know, less fabric and quicker to make. Oh, I consider this to be a one seam shorts/pants pattern. There are no side seams.

The end result is...almost a good fit...in the front. The only issue I have is the back side is running shorter than the front side. Does that mean I have a bigger or non-standard rear-end?

Since my mind appears to be working a lot lately, I decided to take my Kwik Sew 3314 pattern (where did this come from? I'll get to that in a moment) and see if I can retrace the back part of the KS pattern over the this Butterick pattern. Basically, raising the backend (waist area). I'll let you know how that comes out.

So, this my 3rd attempt to sew pants. My first attempt was 2 years ago and it was with KS3314. That pattern fits me. I can't remember if I posted a review on that pattern. Back then, I didn't care for elastic waist pants and didn't pay attention to the fit.

Why don't I stick to a potential TNT pattern? I'm pushing my own personal bar and I really need to understand my own fitting/alteration changes. I've been avoiding making pants for awhile and I think I need to change.

Also, I've been sewing a lot of Butterick patterns lately. I really like the styles I see. That is what's pushing me to change.

Plus, this new learning experience will help me when I teach my basic sewing classes.

Please feel free to comment on any ideas or suggestions that you may have for me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :)

(Sounds like I'm getting all chatty again) lol!!!

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Stay Tuned...

As you know, we all go through some "dry spells" where we are in the midst of tracing, cutting, & sewing and do not have much to post. Some of us are busy with summer activities (e.g. gardening, house maintenance, taking care of family time, and personal quality time) and have less time for the Internet. Oh no, less time for the Internet? lol!

I know some of you are visiting my blog regularly and I want to keep the interest going. I have started to write some of my future posts on the side. The future posts will include tools I use to trace a pattern, storage and organization, and some sewing techniques I use. To name a few.

As you know, I have been posting some of "My Favorite" notions. That will continue...until I have no more notions to talk about. lol!

So, stay tuned. Keep smiling! Keep sewing!

Monday, June 9, 2008

My Favorite Pins & Pin Cushion

Once again, it's time to talk about my favorite notions. The topic for today is Pins and Pin Cushions.

I have been collecting pin cushions for as long as I have been sewing clothes for myself. My first one was one that I made back in 2005 when I first started sewing...a heart shaped cushion. A few months ago, Gloria gave me one in the shape of a dress form. That one is really classy and is more for display purposes (and I'm still looking for some fancy "bling" pins to dress it up).

My "workhorse" pin cushion is this fancy one from Dritz. I love the size and the square shape. It holds a lot of pins. And notice the included scissors? Too cool! I ended up buying two of these at Joann's. One is used at my ironing station. The one in the picture is used at my sewing machine. This even fits in the wide harp area of my Viking Sapphire SM.

Now, what's a pin cushion without pins? These are my favorite pins. They are heat resistant glass head pins. I love them because they work with all the different types of fabrics I have used used so far (lightweight fabrics to home dec). I have ironed over them without any problems. They are 1-3/8 inches long. They are extra-fine with a ".5mm" nickel-plated shaft. These are made by Dritz. Other brands that I like and continue to use: Clover (red and white pins) and Collins (yellow pins). The key is the .5mm size shaft. They are very sharp.

While I was teaching my first sewing class, I was showing my students how to pin the pattern piece to their fabric. I borrowed their pins and oh my gosh! I almost had a fit...I had a hard time getting their pins through the fabric. At the next class, I brought in an extra box of red and white Clover pins that I had and gave them to use. Guess what?? They were happy campers. For them, it was a lesson well learned.

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, June 8, 2008

More Fabric Finds - Post #3 (last post for today)

I could not help myself. Another fabric purchase. This time at Joann's. They were having a 60% off Spring fabric sale. I found some wonderful linen and cotton fabrics. The print fabrics (pink & blue, black & white, and the soft blue & white) are all cotton. The solids and the beige striped are all linens. The pink fabric in the middle is cotton pique.

I couldn't resist the black & white cotton shirting. It wanted to go home with me. :)

As Kat is cheering me on...I am making an effort to sew more with florals and other colors (besides black).

(If you see any fabrics that are loud and tropical...that's because I am also sewing some cruise-wear garments).

Happy Sewing! Stay cool...for those of you who are going through a heatwave....