My Favorite Cutting Tools - Kai Scissors

Since I'm between sewing projects, I thought it would be a good time to start talking about my favorite sewing tools and notions. I thought I would start with my scissors, the most important sewing tool.

In the 3 years I have been sewing, I have used Ginghers, Mundial, and Fiskars. I now own Kai Scissors. These Japanese made scissors are stainless steel with vanadium. What is Vanadium? Well, I did some quick research on Google and came up with this brief description: Vanadium is a soft and ductile, silver gray metal. It has good resistance to corrosion and is used along with stainless steel to make surgical tools. It has good structural strength.

Let me tell you, they are lightweight and a joy to use. I have used them to cut lightweight fabrics, home decor, fleece, and denim without any problems.

I have used them for over 2 years and they are of course my favorite. I have the dressmaking shears in 8-1/2 (N5220) and 8 (N5210) inches. The 8-inch fits comfortably in my hand and I used that as my primary fabric cutting scissors. I also own the 6-1/2 inch scissors (N5165), which is great to keep near the sewing machine for clipping threads and mostly for trimming fabric. I also have the 4” needle-craft scissors (N5100) for cutting threads. The 4-inch might be a bit small for folks with large hands.

I have recently purchased the 8” pinking shears (N5350). I ordered them on a Friday and received them on a Tuesday. Jim did not waste any time processing and shipping from the West Coast. Free shipping is included in the price of the scissor.

Check out the Kai Scissors website to see the variety of scissors they carry.

Another Butterick 5223 - Floral top

Okay, so my third version of this top is posted. What happened to my second version? ...Stay tuned.

I found this lovely raspberry/black/green/yellow/white cotton fabric at G-Street. It is probably a quilting fabric, but I could not pass it up as the color and print is gorgeous for a top. After I pre-washed this fabric, I noticed the fabric width was only 40". Good thing I bought the whole remnant.

After sewing the top, I tried it on and felt the top was too loose fitting. The side profile was a little too poofy for me. I ended up taking in the side seams 1/2". Since the sleeve fits perfectly, I went ahead and took in the side seam at the bottom of the arm opening. About 1" inch below the underarm seam, I started my stitching on the original 5/8" seam line and then gradually stitched away from original seam line and then kept stitching 1/2" from the original seam line down to the bottom of the top. Not bad for a quick fix.

I was flipping through the Butterick pattern catalog and saw a picture of this jacket being modeled. I noticed the pleats for this jacket/top were not stitched down as in my versions. In the pattern instructions, they have you baste the pleats and I interpretted it to mean topstitching down the pleats, eventually. I think if you end up basting your pleats and then removing the basting stitches after the jacket is completed, you'll have a softer looking neckline. I am not sure how it will affect the side profile of the jacket. I guess there is only way to find out when I make my 4th version of this pattern.

Now, what happened to my second version? It's still on Susie-Q. I was doing test buttonholes for this lovely bright color floral pique version and ran into some problems with the buttonholes coming out crooked/wonky. So, I stopped working on this jacket and continued sewing my third version. Now that I have figured out a way to take in the side seams, I will also do the same with this jacket (after I undo the hem). And hopefully, I won't have any problems with my 2nd test buttonholes. If I do, my backup plan is to use huge snaps.

So, this is pretty much what my weekend was all about (besides the fabric shopping). I would have loved to traced out another pattern, but that didn't happen. Focus on finishing these Butterick tops was my priority.

Happy Sewing!

Fabrics...part 2

I went fabric shopping...again. This is what I found: light blue/white "fine" cotton pique floral print, black/beige striped linen, black wool (super drapey & soft), and a navy blue/brown/raspberry/beige cotton sateen stretch print. Atleast 3 of the 4 fabrics I purchased are summer-weight fabrics. I am getting better. I couldn't pass up the black wool (remnant)...it was sooooo soft.


I also came across the following pieces on the clearance table: Black/gray/white striped, purple/dark gray striped, and red/gold window-paned fabrics. These appear to be microfiber and very drapey. I immediately thought about making some shirts or tops with these.

I pre-washed gentle cycle, the Donna Karan linen (previous post) and the black/beige striped linen and very lightly dried in the dryer. Yes, they are machine washable and the results....they came out very soft.

So, what am I going to do with all this fabric? I guess we'll have to wait and see...

Happy Memorial Day!

Fabrics...my latest fabric purchase & current projects

I wanted to share my fabric purchase from G-Street Fabrics. I was looking for some colorful lightweight fabrics for summer. I had a hard time looking beyond the black and white fabrics I saw in the store. There was a lot...cotton sateen, jersey knits, lycra knits, polyester microfiber, etc. When I got past the black and white colors (and walked up and down the tables), nothing jumped out at me to say "take me home with you".

I did manage to find some wonderful pieces and in the back of my head, I was actually planning for a "mental" SWAP (sewing with a plan). Working from left to right: you guessed it...a black and white poly print that I hope to make in a Vogue surplice/wrap top. Next, is a wonderful black cotton/rayon that is soooo soft and would make a lovely skirt. The next one is a raspberry and black brocade evening fabric. It was an end piece and I think I have enough to make a sleeveless princess seam top with buttons down the back. The last piece on the right is a gorgeous raspberry poly fabric with a floral print (tone on tone) that looks great on both sides. I kept thinking of a jacket using the base color (shown in the picture) and using the reverse of the fabric for the collar. Yes, my mind was working overtime while shopping.


I did end up with a summer fabric. I found this gorgeous Donna Karan taupe and white linen. When I touched this fabric, I immediately fell in love with it. It's so soft. It's also machine washable. I could not pass this up. This might end up as my 4th version for another Butterick 5223 top.

Speaking of Butterick 5223, I also wanted to share with you the fabrics I am using for my next versions. My second version is this bright colored cotton pique fabric. All I have to do is finish the buttonholes and I will be posting this on PR.

And my third version, is a colorful cotton fabric...much lighter than what is suggested on the pattern. I am getting ready to stitch the pleats and I think this fabric will work. So for now, this pattern will be considered a top and not a jacket.

What can I say? I can't stay away from fabric that has black in it.

Another Butterick jacket/top or two...I'm on a roll.

I finished hemming my second jacket/top last night. Yes, it's the same Butterick 5223 pattern that I posted on PR last week and received wonderful feedback on. This second version is in a bold print (black, blue, green, yellow, & white) cotton pique. I started making practice buttonholes and decided to call it quits for the night. You know, one shouldn't be sewing buttonholes when one is really tired. And I didn't want another repeat buttonhole fiasco like the first jacket.

I also cut out a third version of this pattern, which I will call a top as I am using a lighter fabric than suggested. For this top, I am using a fabulous cotton print in black, raspberry, olive green, gold, and white colors. Good thing I bought the whole remanent - 5-1/2 yards. After pre-washing, the fabric was only 40" wide.

I thought about taking in the sides of this jacket, to give it a narrower profile from the front, back, and side. A nice lady who works for G-Street (Centreville) commented on how lovely it looks and persuaded me not to. I think she's right.

I'll see how the lighter fabric works with this pattern and I will probably baste stitch the top together. I'll try it on and see if it needs to be taken in. With the hot, humid summer approaching...I may think twice as I'd rather wear loose clothing that can breathe.

And yes, I hope to take a little drive into Centreville to visit my only local G-Street. They are having a 25% sale on most things...now through Monday. And they have a coupon at their website.

Pattern sales alert: Hancock's has McCall's, Butterick, and Vogue on sale starting today through Monday. BTW, my local Hancock store went through a renovation for the last two weeks. Of course, the whole store was rearranged.

G-Street Fabrics...I'm in shock!

I took a trip down to Potomac Mills Mall (Woodbridge, VA) and was shocked to see no G-Street Fabric store. I was so looking forward to buying some nice fabric. I went into a neighboring store and was told they closed the fabric store 2 weeks ago. I'm still in shock at the news.

Luckily, they still have their Centreville store. Looks like I'll be heading to that store to take advantage of their sale.

I know this store closing is a sign of the times. I guess it's really a good reason to have huge fabric stash.

Update: I did a search and found that G-Street Fabrics (PM) actually closed around the end of April. *Sigh*

Butterick 5223 - My Periwinkle Jacket

It's finally done...the jacket and my PR review. This has been a rewarding sewing experience for me. I had an inkling that this jacket would fit me without any alterations. I traced out a size 10 given the finished bust was 44"...plenty of room. The finished jacket length is 20" and it's right in the ballpark of where I prefer my jacket length.

BeckyC and bestgrammy from PR provided me with wonderful suggestions on fixing my buttonhole mess. I ended up hand stitching the zig zags over the frayed bottom edge of the hole. Then I applied the Fray Check. It worked great. And Kat, also from PR, told me about the buttonhole cutter she uses. Now Kat...is that the chisel looking tool that comes with a little blue square cutting mat?

Oh, I found the perfect buttons for this cute jacket. I went down in size and found these awesome 1" buttons at Joann's. It's a great match in color and I love the silver lined holes in the buttons. They really make the jacket stand out. (and yes, in this picture...I'm hiding the frayed buttonhole...waiting to be fixed)

I love the pleats in this jacket. It was worth the extra effort to fold and sew them.

I wore this jacket to my local fabric store and managed to turn some heads. Even the manager did a double take. And I did find a cute floral pique that I might use for another pleated jacket. Now, in my review I was hoping to avoid a fabric that had black or blue color in it. It couldn't be helped. My new pique fabric has a black background with teal blue and lime green flowers. Why can't I find any cool and bright colored fabrics?

My review is posted on PR. You can find the review on my PR listing on the right side of my blog.

Enjoy!

Can anyone help me? Please?

I have finally finished my Butterick jacket. I sewed the 3 buttonholes and cut them open and wouldn't you know it...one of them is fraying. It's the bottom zigzag of the buttonhole that has come apart in the middle. As you can see, this is a first for me (otherwise I wouldn't be asking for help) and I have sewn a lot of buttonholes.

Oh, I have also applied the Fray Check before and after...the results are not very good.

I have posted a question and request for assistance on PR, but I was hoping that maybe one of my fellow bloggers would have an answer for me or atleast point me in the right direction to get this buttonhole repaired.

Until then, atleast I can write my review....

Work in Progress

So far, my Butterick jacket is coming along nicely. I have included a picture of the front with pleats. I have pinned the button to the top to see if I really should be using a "humongous" button on little ole me. The pattern calls for 1-1/4" buttons. That would be 3 of them. I found the one in the picture at Hancock's...perfect color, but 1-1/2" in size. Just for fun, I placed 1" buttons on the jacket to get a feel for size...they got lost in the fabric.

The sleeves have been sewn into the jacket. I'm now giving it a rest and let it hang on Susie-Q until this evening. All I need to do is hem the jacket bottom and then figure out what really makes sense as far as button size for this jacket.

I'm taking my Narnia book (Prince Caspian) with me outside to read on our porch...DH is studying outside as well. I'm hoping to see the new movie next weekend. It's a gorgeous day outside.

Have you ever done this?

Oh I could really slap myself silly for this.

Since I have sewn 2 summer tops using KwikSew 3610 (yes, I made another), I am back into my sewing zone. Finally...at last. Got to love KS patterns for a quick sewing fix and a feeling of accomplishment.

I am now working on Butterick 5223...the new cute pleated jacket/top. This is a first for me to dive into a brand new pattern that I have only had for a week. I believe this pattern has been out for less than two weeks. I have sewn the pleats and have stitched the shoulders and sides seams. I have also stitched the front facing to the back facing. Well, guess what?? This Butterick pattern (like many others) doesn't use 1/4" seam allowances! Duh!!! Okay...I am now red in the face for slapping myself too many times.

Good thing I stopped sewing long enough to have my "duh" moment. Yes, I can resew my seams at 5/8" and trim off the 1/4" seams I made.

Okay, so maybe none of you have had this problem. That's what I get for sewing in the evenings when I am tired.

Now that I have blogged my frustration, I am about to take a 15 minute chocolate break and then fix my seams. Off I go...in search of dark chocolates....

New Butterick Patterns...I Like

I am really bad about keeping a limit to my stash. This past Friday (after the long work week), I dropped by my local Hancock's to say "Hi" to my favorite folks that work there. I caught the Butterick pattern sale they were having. I found these 3 patterns that I now have added to my growing "to sew" list. And for some reason, I am favoring View A for all 3 patterns.

I love this top and the design of the front...

And this knit top pattern looks interesting (I feel some creative juices)...

And finally, I love the pleats around the neckline. I think it is worth a try...

Atleast, I can dream about these patterns and about sewing during the upcoming work week. I just hope it's not another marathon work week.

Happy Sewing!

KS3610 - The Blue & White Top

Here is my new summer top from the KS3610 pattern. Right now, Susie-Q is temporarily wearing the new creation until I get a chance to photograph myself (yes...using a tripod and timer on the camera). I love this top. It was quick and easy to make. And the fabric was a joy to sew with.

Unfortunately, I had a busy 60-hour work week and haven't had time to post until now. Yesterday, was a sleep late and go to church and take a nap day. I am thankful for the much needed rest.

So, on to my sewing topic for today.

I was able to finish most of this top last Sunday. I left the top on Susie-Q with the hem undone. I was contemplating on whether to topstitch the hem or do a blind stitch. The topstitch won out and I finished the top last night.

I did do a boo-boo when I was cutting out the fabric. I forgot to place the front and back facing on the fold of the fabric. So, there I was happily cutting away. When it came time to sew the pieces...slap my silly head. I ended up butting the two (now... the left and right front facing) front edge pieces together and did a small zig-zag across the two pieces. Whew! It worked like a charm. Now, my front facing was one piece. I did the same with the back facing.

Here is a closeup of the front with the gathered casing and tie.

I have included a picture of the inside front facing. I love how the facing also includes the arm area and makes the top look very clean and finished. Before applying the facing, I serged around the outer edges of the facing to also give the inside a nice finish.

And I managed to make a nice bow out of the tie. I love having my Susie-Q (dressform). I get to practice making bows on her.

As soon as I can take pictures of myself wearing the top, I will post my review on
Pattern Review.

Happy Mother's Day...to all the wonderful mothers enjoy your day!

Switching Gears - Another Project

Yeah, I am switching gears. I was suppose to be working on the Vogue 8499 skirt, but have stopped short of shortening the pattern pieces. I have to shorten the overall skirt by 2 inches. I am toying with the idea of shortening 1 inch above the pocket and then 1 inch in the pocket area. So, as I contemplate that idea and put the Vogue pattern aside for now...I need a sewing project that will give me a quick sewing buzz.

I have already selected another pattern for the new/next project. I have traced the pattern and cut out the fabric. Here's the fabric I am using, a really nice blue/white lightweight cotton. Trust me, there is no black in this fabric. (Has anyone noticed how much black (or combo) fabric I have been using lately?) This is all blue and white colors. I am not sure if I could call this fabric a cotton voile or lawn...it feels like it's in between.

So, I hope to get this project sewn today. Can't wait to hear the hum of my sewing machine.

Oh, did I forget to mention what pattern I am working on today? It will be a surprise.